Thursday 25 August 2011

The Romantische Strasse, the Wormitz, Tauber and Main

According nto nthe title of this blog, we're supposed to be cycling the ""Rivers of Germany and the Netherlands" ... well we haven't really lived up to the Netherlands bit, but we have discovered a couple of new and beautiful ones in Germany. The "Romantische Stasse" runs from Fussen (just North of the Alps) to Wurzburg am Main. WQe joined it at Donauworth, about half way along, and followed the Wormitz valley past the towns of Nordlingen and Dinkelsbuhl. Both are staggeringly beautiful, walled, medieval towns, with narrow cobbled streets opening onto charming little squares, ringed with relaxed cafes and bars. Of the two, Nordlingen was the more 'touristy' possibly due to the fact that it is built at the centre of a huge meteorite impact crater. From the top of the church tower in the centre of towm, you can look out at the ring of hills 28k in diameter, representing the crater rim. Dinkelsbuhl though has to rate as the most lovely of all the towns we've seen so far. We were simply overcome, and went back into town in the evening and ate out a restaurant for a change. We found a small place - the food was realy good, and what's more, they brewed their own beer on the premises. A German couple joined us and we got the chance to "versuch Deutsche sprechen" (ot hovever it should be spelt).
The next day we crossed the watershed an joined the Tauber river. It eventually flows into the Main and thence into the Rhein and the North Sea (whereas the Wormitz joins the Danube and finally flows into the Black Sea). The first major town is Rothenburg. This "out-twees" all the other towns on the Romantische Strasse, and could single-handedly keep the German postcard business going for posterity. We were guilty, once again, of contributing to the vast number of tourists who unevitably detract from its charm.
The Tauber valley is a miniature Donautal, but without the spectacular limestone pinnacles. Even so it was delightful and unspoilt. Over the past week, the weather seems to have finally realized that it's summer. On two consecutive days we have covered 93k and 95k, taking us all the way back down the Tauber, the Main and then to Mainz on the Rhein.
It's a month since we first passed this way through the Rhein Gorge on our way south. This time, in the sunshine we had wonderful views of the famous hillto castles, (or "schlosses" as we fluent Deutsche sprechers say?)
At the time of writing this blog we are in the campsite opposite the Deutsches Eck at Koblenz, at the confluence of the Rhein and the Mosel. We're having a day off cycling to catch up with all our washing and other 'housekeeping' chores, then tomorrow we are off down the Mosel on the last leg of our trip. From Trier we plan to take the train back to Rotterdam and the ferry to England.
All is still going well and with the improvement in the weather, life 'on the wheel' is certainly sweet.

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like a great trip. The best part is that you weren't held to a particular route. You can just go where the wind takes you, and that's what you have done. Enjoy the rest of your trip!!!

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