The first two weeks along the Rhein

Well we certainly know were not in Great Britain anymore. We've had a campsite owner come out in the pouring rain to help us get the tent up, and then invited us into his house to warm up with a cup of coffee; we've been shown courtesy and given the right of way by car and HGV drivers alike; we've eaten breakfast in a small cafe full of schoolkids on their way to school - all sitting quietly chatting - and then gave up their seats voluntarily so other people could sit down; and we've cycled for most of the time on well-signposted, well-organised traffic-free cycle paths. Come to think of it ... "Great" ?? Britain.

After a pleasant crossing to Rotterdam we were soon on our way through the Netherlands. The weather wasn't good and we encountered Holland's famous "wind-generated hills" (even a flat cycle path along the dijk feel like a 30% hill against a stiff headwind). It suddenly dawned on Di why Holland had so many windmills! The campsite at Berg en Dal (where Holland does actually have a hill) was full due to an annual walking event in the area, so we pressed on to the next place right on the German border.

Magically the River Waal, which we'd followed from Rotterdam now becomes The Rhein - and the weather improved. The new tent (Terra Nova Voyager XL) seems to be ideal for cycle touring - it's nice and light and we can get all our stuff under the awning at night. The "footprint" groundsheet protector is great.

By-passing the industrial areas south of Duisberg, by train, we arrived in Cologne. On the train a guy kindly phoned ahead to the Tourist Information and checked there was a place available at the campsite - yet another example of the warm-hearted friendliness and generosity the German people seem to show to visitors from abroad. Hmmm "Great"???

We had a long day (100k) down to Koblenz, the last 25k being in an enormous thunderstorm and deluge. As a result we took the next day off from cycling to wash and dry our clothes and have a look around the town. We ate out at a really nice restaurant in a small square, but apart from that we've (I cook, Di washes-up) been doing all out cooking at the tent. We were given a "top-tip" regarding cooking pasta/lentils etc to save camping gaz. Put them in a thermos flask of boiling water at the start. By the time the rest of the meal is prepared and cooked, they're done without needing to simmer. (Thanks Steve and Joyce!)

After Koblenz we passed through the Rhein gorge, camping directly across the river from the Loreley Rock. (No maidens were to be seen or heard, and all the ships we saw, safely negotiated the bend without being lured to their doom.) Beyond, the landscape opened up once more and we returned to following cycle patha along the river dikes. The countryside and wildlife are wonderful - rolling hills in the distance, forest trails and marshes with all manner of waterfowl, buzzards, peregrine and heron on display.

Eventually though we left the Rhein at Mannheim and began our ascent of the Nekkar. First stop was a visit to Heidelberg, probably one of the most beaytiful cities in Europe. A magnificent castle on the hill overlooks the medieval Alt Stadt with its imposing Rathaus in the town square. The whole place is thronged with tourists from all over the world, and we simply added to the masses clicing away with their cameras. It's a sad fact that when surrounded by people of every colour and creed, clattering away in a million different languages, it's always the American accents which stand out. It rather unfairly leads to the oft used dismissive description of a place as being "just full of American tourists", whilst conveniently forgetting about the other 999 nationalities, of which we ourselves contribute two!

The Nekkartal Radweg affords a rathe more "personal" relationship with the river than when travelling along the Rhein. The cycle path follows closely beside the river as it winds its way through a steep-walled, densely forested gorge. Perfectly preserved medieval towns, each a miniature version of Heidelberg (without the expensive shops, bars and restaurants) appear around every bend; and where the valley does widen, there is a relaxed rural feel to the place. So now we are a few days up the Nekkar at a little town called Gundelsheim, having another rest-day. We're two weeks into the trip, all is going well - and even the weather is looking up!