The Photos

We're just putting here a small sample of the hundreds of photos we must have taken - but these are a drop in the ocean compared to the million memories we have, of all the places we've seen and the people we have met. Once more we have to thank the people of Germany for their wholehearted welcome and kindness. It is a wonderful country and we hope one day to visit again.

The Journey Home

It poured down all our last night, and was still raining at 4.30am when we got up. We packed in the wet and in the dark, by the light of our head torches, then set off down to the station.

Stage One Trier - Dusseldorf

We had time for coffee and croissants in the cafeteria before boarding the train to Dusseldorf (via Koblenz). We had reservations for the bikes in their own numbered racks and for ourselves in our own private compartment. En route we looked out at so many places we recognised that we had passed in the opposite direction on our bikes days and weeks ago, now speeding past in a couple of hours. It was all going so well ...

Stage Two Dusseldorf - Venlo

We had 40min to get our bikes from Platform 19 over to Platform 4 for the Venlo train. Easy-peasy despite the fact the bikes wouldn't fit into the lift whist laden with panniers; but we had time ...

Ten minutes before the train was due, the tannoy announced that the Venlo train would now be arriving at Platform 12 instead!! Mad rush as everyone piled for the stairs and lift and we were left at the back of the queue. With a couple of minutes to spare and stress levels going into the red we made it and got on. The train set off and despite being a bit cramped we started once more to relax. At Munchengladbach the train stopped. There was an unintelligible (to me) announcement in German and Dutch and everyone got off the train and rushed down the stairs out of the station. We discovered that we needed to catch a replacement bus service as far as Venlo. Bumping our bikes down the stairs, along with another couple of cycle tourists we emerged out of the station to chaos as everyone scrambled to get on the two available buses. We had no chance ... but wondrously ... a third bus appeared - specially for bicycles! Stress levels, at the prospect of us missing our connection from Venlo, now well into the red, were further raised when a group of renegade biddies forced their way onto our bus and behaved in a thoroughly obnoxious way, pushing and shoving past us and our bikes in their frenzy to get a seat. Di provided a few strong words and they settled to a malignant undercurrent of bickering for the rest of the journey.

Stage Three Venlo - Rotterdam

We arrived at Venlo station just in time for the heavens to open in a torrential downpour (which at least kept the biddies on the bus protecting their blue-rinses!). We were also just in time to miss our connection. Thankfully another train came along only a half hour later and the guard let us use our tickets. At last, nothing else could go wrong ...

Stage Four Rotterdam - Europoort

Just as we arrived at Rotterdam, once more the torrential rain came, this time driven by a Westerly gale. We were exhausted by the journey by now, and with it being later than scheduled, we decided to take a train out to the port instead of the 25km cycle ride facing us.

We were told that 'There isn't a train - only a bus and it doesn't take bikes' and so with no other alternative we set off against the Mother Of All Headwinds across the flat exposed industrial wasteland out towards the port. Three hours later we were aboard, completely exhausted, but content we'd made it.

With a meal and a few beers inside us, the horrors of the day faded, and we had a really good sleep.

Just to round it all off, back in the UK, Transpennine Express Trains have finally changed their policy and we were able to reserve places for both bikes. At 4.00pm, 23 1/2 hours after getting up in Trier we got home.

It's been another wonderful experience, filled with new sights, places and very many interesting, helpful and inspiring people. Thank you to everyone who has made out journey such a fulfilling and rich experience.

The Mosel ... as far as Trier

The Mosel joins the Rhein at Koblenz and we followed it back, with our first stop about 60k upstream at Cochem. It is another one of those beautiful little towns, overlooked by a fairytale castle that we have seen so many of on our journey in Germany so far. I feel rather guilty of dismissing it so easily. If this had been the first town we'd seen on our travels I am sure I would be waxing lyrical about its virtues. The same could also be said about Bernkastel, two days cycle-ride further up the river. We called there for lunch, and it too is beautiful and charming and deserving of much better adjectives.

The river itself winds its way through a steep walled valley for much of the way. At Treis Karden we passed and celebrated our 2000km with a picnic lunch with a glass of wine and a beer.The valley sides are clad in vineyards using every available square metre, even clinging to almost vertical slopes. At Piesport, the river has cut a tight 'S'-bend below steep cliffs which give this section the name of the 'Mosel Loreley'. Piesporter wine comes from these slopes, and we stopped at the Mosel Loreley Vineyard Gasthof for a sample. The wine-maker himself served us and we got a photo of him and our bottle (which is bound for our mantle-piece at home!)

We've also been rather sated with magnificent churches and cathedrals. Every one is magnificent, but after the first half dozen you tend to run out of superlatives. The Cathedral of St Peter in Trier however, is in a league of its own, and truly stands out as the most impressive we have seen. It still incorporates some of its earliest construction going back to the conversion of the Eastern Roman Emperor Constantine in 329AD. Later, no less than four basilicas were added in Romanesque, Gothic and Baroque styles (so the guide book tells me) ... but you only need a pair of eyes to tell you that it is totally awesome.

Going back almost as far, is the Porta Nigra (Black Gate), another Roman edifice dominating the entrance to the 'old town'. The hermit Simon 'Stylites' spent his entire life in pious meditation on top of the North Tower, which seems a shame because I'm sure that the Tourist Information housed at the foot of the tower, could have found him somewhere more comfortable in one of the town's hotels.

We were quite happy in the campsite, where we stayed for two days, having completed our cycle ride, and now prepare for our journey home by train and ferry. Di would have been happier still if she hadn't had an exploding Thermarest, but luckily it is the last night she will need it. Another piece of 'luck' was the discovery that the rim of her rear wheel was disintegrating. One good 'bump' and the whole wheel would have collapsed ... a frightening prospect when you think what that might have involved! As it happened she was able to get it replaced at a very good bike shop in town.

We're having a few beers and wines with a couple of our neighbours on the campsite, in the Biergarten on our last night ... which is maybe a bit of a mistake because we have to be up at 4.30am in time to catch our train tomorrow.

The Romantische Strasse, the Wormitz, Tauber and Main

According nto nthe title of this blog, we're supposed to be cycling the ""Rivers of Germany and the Netherlands" ... well we haven't really lived up to the Netherlands bit, but we have discovered a couple of new and beautiful ones in Germany. The "Romantische Stasse" runs from Fussen (just North of the Alps) to Wurzburg am Main. WQe joined it at Donauworth, about half way along, and followed the Wormitz valley past the towns of Nordlingen and Dinkelsbuhl. Both are staggeringly beautiful, walled, medieval towns, with narrow cobbled streets opening onto charming little squares, ringed with relaxed cafes and bars. Of the two, Nordlingen was the more 'touristy' possibly due to the fact that it is built at the centre of a huge meteorite impact crater. From the top of the church tower in the centre of towm, you can look out at the ring of hills 28k in diameter, representing the crater rim. Dinkelsbuhl though has to rate as the most lovely of all the towns we've seen so far. We were simply overcome, and went back into town in the evening and ate out a restaurant for a change. We found a small place - the food was realy good, and what's more, they brewed their own beer on the premises. A German couple joined us and we got the chance to "versuch Deutsche sprechen" (ot hovever it should be spelt).

The next day we crossed the watershed an joined the Tauber river. It eventually flows into the Main and thence into the Rhein and the North Sea (whereas the Wormitz joins the Danube and finally flows into the Black Sea). The first major town is Rothenburg. This "out-twees" all the other towns on the Romantische Strasse, and could single-handedly keep the German postcard business going for posterity. We were guilty, once again, of contributing to the vast number of tourists who unevitably detract from its charm.

The Tauber valley is a miniature Donautal, but without the spectacular limestone pinnacles. Even so it was delightful and unspoilt. Over the past week, the weather seems to have finally realized that it's summer. On two consecutive days we have covered 93k and 95k, taking us all the way back down the Tauber, the Main and then to Mainz on the Rhein.

It's a month since we first passed this way through the Rhein Gorge on our way south. This time, in the sunshine we had wonderful views of the famous hillto castles, (or "schlosses" as we fluent Deutsche sprechers say?)

At the time of writing this blog we are in the campsite opposite the Deutsches Eck at Koblenz, at the confluence of the Rhein and the Mosel. We're having a day off cycling to catch up with all our washing and other 'housekeeping' chores, then tomorrow we are off down the Mosel on the last leg of our trip. From Trier we plan to take the train back to Rotterdam and the ferry to England.

All is still going well and with the improvement in the weather, life 'on the wheel' is certainly sweet.

The Donau ... and the Romantische Strasse

As avid followers of this blog will have noticed the route described at first is not the one we've followed. We seemed to be covering the distances quicker than we'd expected and so the "Plan B" became to go up the Nekkar then down the Donau to Donauworth, and 'return' north along the 'Romantische Strasse' ... so that's what we're doing.

Leaving Donaueschingen and following the Donau brought back lots of memories of last year. This time, the weather, although still leaving a lot to be desired, was better than before ... but the Donautal is stunningly beautiful whatever the weather. We had lots of ... "here's where ... " and, "do you remember...?", as we rode along, reminiscing about our first few days cycling together. Blaubeuren was wonderful, and we had a luxurious night at the Hotel Adler instead of camping. The next day we stopped briefly in Ulm for breakfast and then moved on to Dillingen Kanu Club campsite, right beside the river, for the night. The lady at the campsite remembered me cutting my finger last year, and I chatted again with her father with whom I watched the football (Germany vs England) in the World Cup last year.

We had one more day on the Danube, as far as Donauworth, which is at the crossroads of the Donau Radweg and the Romantische Strasse. The campsite, once more, is right beside the river (Wormitz) and there are supposed to be otters that come out in the evenings ... we saw ripples in the water and that was it!

The Romantische Strasse links a string of really old, beautiful mediaeval towns running from Wurzburg in the North to Fussen (with it's 'fairytale' castle as seen on many a Chocolate Box!) in the South. Donauworth is half way along. We will reach Wurzburg in a few days and decide where we go from there.

For now though, we are happily camped and having a 'day off' in a lovely old town called Dinkelsbuhl, sitting in the campsite bar, writing our diaries and drinking their 75cent beers!

The Nekkartal ... and a "Day to Remember"

The journey up the Nekkar continued on from Gundelsheim and by shortly after lunch-time we reached Besigheim. Stopping for a beer in the sqaure we discovered that later in the evening was an outdoor performance of the opera Nabucco. There weren't any campsites in the area but I asked a couple at the next table if they knew of anywhere we could pitch our tent for the night. The lady only owned a vineyard overlooking the town and said we could stay there for free! ... and her brother drove me up in his car to show me the way, before bringing me back to the cafe where Di and his sister were waiting. The hill was a bit daunting and after the Fat Lady had done her stuff we toiled up to our "campsite" ... only to find in a nearby vineyard an impromptu rave was going on. Nabucco was enough music for one night so we upped sticks and found another quieter spot and 'wild-camped'.

Stuttgart and the industrial middle section of the river soon passed and once more we were out in beautiful countryside heading towards Tubingen. The river was now no longer navigable and we began to notice we were climbing, still fairly gently and steadily but climbing for sure. By the time we reached Horb, the weather had turned really hot and sunny and after a wander around the steep narrow streets of the Alt Stadt, we fortified ourselves with a beer before setting off on the really long and steep climb up to the campsite. The tarmac was melting and still the track climbed; a welcome respite came from the shade of the trees, but in the gaps between the sun really was beating down.

We were rewarded at the top with some cold beers from the campsite kiosk, and as soon as the tent was up I went for a swim in the pool. We decided to forgo cooking in the evening and ate in the restaurant instead - we figured we deserved it!

It's 100k from Horb to the Nekkarquelle (the source of the river) in Schwenningen, and then across the watershed to the Donauquelle (the source of the Danube) in Donaueschingen. There's also about 450m of climbing to do as well. We set out from Horb with the intention of doing it in two stages; the first involving the big climb to the town of Rottweil (of dog fame) where we'd wild-camp, and then on the second day cross the watershed. As it turned out, with an early start and slightly cooler weather we reached Rottweil by early afternoon. It is a truly beautiful old town and after we'd had a look round, took a few pics and had a rest, we decided we were fit to carry on all the way. It turned out to be a pretty exhausting day in the end though, and the last 10k were 'elastic' - (seemed to stretch for ages!)

Nevertheless, today we managed to see the sources of two of Europe's major rivers - The Nekkar and The Donau (Danube) within a couple of hours of each other. Today was also very memorable in as much as we passed the 1000k overall trip distance at the Altebrukke in Oberndorf; but most significantly of all, today brought us to Donaueschingen and to the campsite where we first met just over a year ago.

The first two weeks along the Rhein

Well we certainly know were not in Great Britain anymore. We've had a campsite owner come out in the pouring rain to help us get the tent up, and then invited us into his house to warm up with a cup of coffee; we've been shown courtesy and given the right of way by car and HGV drivers alike; we've eaten breakfast in a small cafe full of schoolkids on their way to school - all sitting quietly chatting - and then gave up their seats voluntarily so other people could sit down; and we've cycled for most of the time on well-signposted, well-organised traffic-free cycle paths. Come to think of it ... "Great" ?? Britain.

After a pleasant crossing to Rotterdam we were soon on our way through the Netherlands. The weather wasn't good and we encountered Holland's famous "wind-generated hills" (even a flat cycle path along the dijk feel like a 30% hill against a stiff headwind). It suddenly dawned on Di why Holland had so many windmills! The campsite at Berg en Dal (where Holland does actually have a hill) was full due to an annual walking event in the area, so we pressed on to the next place right on the German border.

Magically the River Waal, which we'd followed from Rotterdam now becomes The Rhein - and the weather improved. The new tent (Terra Nova Voyager XL) seems to be ideal for cycle touring - it's nice and light and we can get all our stuff under the awning at night. The "footprint" groundsheet protector is great.

By-passing the industrial areas south of Duisberg, by train, we arrived in Cologne. On the train a guy kindly phoned ahead to the Tourist Information and checked there was a place available at the campsite - yet another example of the warm-hearted friendliness and generosity the German people seem to show to visitors from abroad. Hmmm "Great"???

We had a long day (100k) down to Koblenz, the last 25k being in an enormous thunderstorm and deluge. As a result we took the next day off from cycling to wash and dry our clothes and have a look around the town. We ate out at a really nice restaurant in a small square, but apart from that we've (I cook, Di washes-up) been doing all out cooking at the tent. We were given a "top-tip" regarding cooking pasta/lentils etc to save camping gaz. Put them in a thermos flask of boiling water at the start. By the time the rest of the meal is prepared and cooked, they're done without needing to simmer. (Thanks Steve and Joyce!)

After Koblenz we passed through the Rhein gorge, camping directly across the river from the Loreley Rock. (No maidens were to be seen or heard, and all the ships we saw, safely negotiated the bend without being lured to their doom.) Beyond, the landscape opened up once more and we returned to following cycle patha along the river dikes. The countryside and wildlife are wonderful - rolling hills in the distance, forest trails and marshes with all manner of waterfowl, buzzards, peregrine and heron on display.

Eventually though we left the Rhein at Mannheim and began our ascent of the Nekkar. First stop was a visit to Heidelberg, probably one of the most beaytiful cities in Europe. A magnificent castle on the hill overlooks the medieval Alt Stadt with its imposing Rathaus in the town square. The whole place is thronged with tourists from all over the world, and we simply added to the masses clicing away with their cameras. It's a sad fact that when surrounded by people of every colour and creed, clattering away in a million different languages, it's always the American accents which stand out. It rather unfairly leads to the oft used dismissive description of a place as being "just full of American tourists", whilst conveniently forgetting about the other 999 nationalities, of which we ourselves contribute two!

The Nekkartal Radweg affords a rathe more "personal" relationship with the river than when travelling along the Rhein. The cycle path follows closely beside the river as it winds its way through a steep-walled, densely forested gorge. Perfectly preserved medieval towns, each a miniature version of Heidelberg (without the expensive shops, bars and restaurants) appear around every bend; and where the valley does widen, there is a relaxed rural feel to the place. So now we are a few days up the Nekkar at a little town called Gundelsheim, having another rest-day. We're two weeks into the trip, all is going well - and even the weather is looking up!